India is a large country, and there are considerable variations in
weather across the country. Basically, however, there are three seasons
(though the traditional Indian calendar defines six): winter, summer and
monsoon. The winter lasts from about October / November to mid February,
when it begins to warm up for the summer.

The hottest months are April and May (The average maximum temperature
in Delhi in May is 40C, the average minimum in January is 6C). The monsoon
reaches different parts of India at different times, but generally July and
August are the wetter months, with rain continuing longer in the South
(Cherrapunji is the wettest place on earth, with an average of more than
2.5m of rainfall in June). Mountain areas are inaccessible in winter.

If you are booked on a Soul of India tour you will receive more detailed
information about the weather specific to your itinerary.

Dress

India is a conservative country, and visitors should dress accordingly. Both
men and women should always have shoulders and knees covered. (Shorts are
considered to be a sign of low status, and can cause offence). Women need to
cover their heads if visiting mosques, and in some temples; men and women
should cover heads in Sikh gurdwaras. Visitors should be prepared to remove
footwear when entering any religious building.

Leather is not permitted in Jain temples, nor in some Hindu temples.

Air conditioned hotels can be surprisingly cool! A hat is recommended against
the sun, at least in the middle of the day. An umbrella is also useful during
the monsoon.

Medical and Health

You should consult your doctor about inoculations and any other medical
requirements. Advice about inoculations varies, but you should at least be
protected against typhoid and tetanus. You will also need protection against
malaria. Depending on personal factors, other precautions may be
appropriate.

India has an undeserved reputation for health problems! As in any different
environment, some simple precautions will greatly reduce the likelihood of
distress. Most of these are common sense.

• Keep clean. Most bugs are transferred by touch, so always wash before
  eating.
• Avoid food that could be contaminated. Don't eat cooked food that
  has been left lying around. Don't eat fruit unless you can peel it or
  wash it thoroughly. Avoid salads.
• Avoid ice cream and fruit salad - this is a difficult one because
  it's a favourite in many hotels.
• Never drink unbottled water (bottled water is always available) and
  always check the seal on the bottle. If the weather is hot, drink lots,
  and take reasonable precautions against the sun.

By its nature Indian food produces a freer bowel than Western food. This is
generally healthier, and no "remedy" should be sought. If you do get
an upset stomach the best treatment is simply not to eat for 24 hours. This
is usually more effective than proprietary diarrhoea treatments.

Good medical facilities are available in Indian cities, although not always
up to Western expectations. Travellers to India should carry appropriate
medical insurance.

Money and shopping

The unit of Indian currency is the rupee. 100 rupees is written as Rs100/-.
There are 100 paise to the rupee.

There are 24 hour banking facilities at international airports. Travellers
cheques are exchangeable at most hotels, but sometimes there can be a
shortage of currency for exchange in out of the way places. Travellers cheques
are acceptable in sterling or American dollars. There is something of a market
for US dollars on the streets, but it is illegal to exchange money except
through authorised channels.

It always used to be possible to exchange Indian and Sri Lankan rupees, but

currently this is difficult in both countries, except at airports.

Prices vary widely. Hotels for foreigners are often priced in US dollars, as
are many of the more expensive souvenirs. Hotel shops usually have high
quality goods, but with prices to match. Even in such "fixed price" shops,
some negotiation is appropriate. In the bazaars and smaller shops bartering
is part of the shopping experience. There is an art to this, and the unwritten
rules often evade foreigners. The more touristy a place, the higher its asking
prices will be, and the greater its price flexibility. Vendors can be very
persistent and persuasive, which can become wearing. In any transaction,
take account of the economic distance between you and the vendor.

Tipping is part of life. Many people will offer you small services, for which
they will expect a tip, and they will always look as though they expected twice
as much as you have given them. It is impossible to generalise, but as a guide,
a small service in a hotel might justify a tip of Rs20. In a restaurant a 5% tip
is quite enough. Rickshaw wallahs and taxi drivers should be tipped.

When visiting temples and other religious places, a small offering is usually
made. An enthusiastic priest might suggest you donate Rs100, but you will see
that most worshippers give coins or small notes.

How much money will you need? A few pounds or dollars a day will more than
cover the normal personal expenses such as lunch, laundry and drinks. After
that, it's entirely up to you what you spend. You can find very authentic
souvenirs for a few Rs, or you can spend many hundreds of dollars on a silk
carpet. Don't buy peacock feathers, however; their export is
prohibited.

Customs and etiquette

Indian people are often remarkably tolerant of the (accidental) rudenesses of
foreigners. But there are some easily observed rules of conduct that will help
avoid some of the worst faux pas.

• Never hold food with your left hand. If passing it to someone else, try
  to avoid touching it, and always use your right hand to pass a plate. In
  country places try to avoid putting used dishes near clean ones.
• When sitting on the floor - yes, you will be expected to do that! -
  never point your feet towards another person or a religious image.
• Men should avoid physical contact with women. Even shaking hands is
  regarded as rather forward. A traditional Indian greeting is much to be
  preferred.

Conversations can be surprising. You will often be asked what appear to be
rather impertinent questions about your financial or family circumstances. These
are not meant to be rude. Don't forget that Indians reveal a lot about
themselves to each other simply by their names and the way they dress. You
don't automatically give that information, and if people are interested
they will ask.

Some suggestions for books to read or bring with you...

V.S. Naipaul, India, a Million Mutinies Now, Minerva, 1990.

V.S. Naipaul, India, a Wounded Civilisation.

J. Nehru, The Discovery of India.

Roger Housden, Travels Through Sacred India. Harper Collins, 1996

Gitanjali Kolanad, Culture Shock India. Times 1994

Michael Wood, The Smile of Murugan. Penguin, 1995

Salman Rushdie and Elizabeth West, The Vintage Book of Indian Writing,
Vintage, 1997

Rabindranath Tagore, plays, poems and stories.

Premchand, various collections of stories.

R.K. Narayan, stories.

Vikram Seth, A Suitable Boy.

Arundhati Roy, The God of Small Things.

Richard Waterstone, India, Belief and Ritual. MacMillan, 1995.